Divine Providence
This would be my first post regarding a location in my home country of the United States. Why choose Rhode Island as my starting point? Because it’s the smallest state in the union? True, but no. Because it has the most dense population per square mile than any state in the union? Also true, but no. Because it’s history is steeped in non-conformity, which I love? True again, but no. I wanted to start here because this is where I live when I’m not gallivanting around this glorious planet. Simply stated, it’s my home.
To be honest, I didn’t choose Providence, it chose me. It’s very name rings of the serendipity that brought me here. If you’ve been following my posts, you’ll likely remember some comments throughout my series on Rome where I found myself in a life transition. It was during that trip to Rome where the reach of this region began to pull me in through an employment opportunity. Shortly after my return from Rome, I was in the New England area finding residence and starting a new day job. Admittedly, I knew nothing about this area…absolutely nothing! I could either live in Boston or Providence. I explored my options, weighed the pros and cons, and ultimately choose the more reasonable commute of Providence (PVD). What I didn’t know, was that I was about to discover that this little state, and it’s radically diverse capital city, punches WAY above its weight class!
While some of the first explorers and founding fathers of the United States conquered territories and claimed lands, Rhode Island was founded by a renegade clergyman and a band of followers who purchased land from the Narragansett Indians and lived peacefully with them. Roger Williams was kicked out of Massachusetts because he believed in a policy of religious and political freedom. And it was that paradigm that positioned Rhode Island to be the first state to outlaw slave trade and the first to renounce allegiance to the British Crown.
It’s this history of firsts that make Providence a city of tolerance and diversity steeped in intellectual and artistic pursuits. Its home to an Ivy League University in Brown, one of the top design schools in the US in RISD – Rhode Island School of Design, and a top culinary school in Johnson and Wales. Its residents are culturally diverse but there is a heavy concentration of Irish, Italian, Greek and Portuguese. What does this mean? World class dining, festivals, art, academia, and oh…remember that Rome connection? One of the top little Italy’s in the US as per the Food Network!
So, whatever shall you do when you visit my “Isola di Rhode” as was originally called? Welcome to my Top Ten list of things to do when you come to my neighborhood. Hit this link for the Providence Discovery Map…a very helpful resource.
One ~ Attend Waterfire: In this case, order does imply importance! If you can schedule your visit to take in the free community event called Waterfire you simply must. It’s by far, the best free event I’ve ever attended…anywhere. It’s so amazing that other cities around the world have replicated it, another Rhode Island first. The event centers around a collection of fire pit water installations with piped in music and artists displaying wares. If you really want to take the experience up a notch, take a Gondola ride right “through the fire”. Location, Waterplace Park down to the starry night of Memorial Park.
Two ~ RISD Art Museum: When I visited I expected to see the art of brilliant students and I did. But what I didn’t expect was the collection of world-class painters and sculptures that rival the litany of artists carried by MoMa in New York City. I don’t want to be a spoiler, but there was a moment when I walked into a room and gasped as I looked at the works…Cezanne, Monet, Rembrandt, Rodin, Degas and Picasso, just to name a few.
Three ~ Stroll Federal Hill’s Little Italy and have lunch at DePasquale Piazza: You can actually eat anywhere on the hill and have great food, but I particularly enjoy eating al fresco in the Piazza near the fountain with the live music in the summer. It’s so authentic that the first time I went I spontaneously spoke Italian to my server to get the check. If you happen to be in PVD on October 7 – 9 don’t miss the annual Columbus Day Festival in Federal Hill on Atwell Avenue. It’s a celebration of all things Italian!
Four ~ Take a food tour: This is a great way to walk the city, get a history lesson and try some of the amazing cuisine. I’ve personally taken the Downcity Providence Food Tour run by Rhode Island Red Food Tours and LOVED it! Its focus is the downtown area.
Five ~ See a show at PPAC: The Providence Performing Arts Center is a world-class theater that is a first stop for the Broadway road circuit as well as all manner of other performers. I’ve been to several shows on Broadway in a variety of locations…and none…not one…came close to the beauty of this theater. It’s worth visiting even when no one is on stage!
Six ~ Visit the State House: Learn about the history of Rhode Island and see the fourth largest self-supporting marble dome in the world. Just to contextualize, larger domes include; St. Peters Basilica in Rome, the Minnesota State Capital and the Taj Mahal. As I’m typing this, it occurs to me that I’ve visited all of them. Hmmm…not exactly sure what that says about me!
Seven ~ Stroll a few key streets: Meander on Westminster street and be sure to stop into Craftland. It’s not what it sounds like, it’s actually a store for local artists and it’s great. Walk Wickenden Street and Hope Street for shops and Benefit Street for the historic homes.
Eight ~ Hit the parks: If you happen to take in Waterfire you’ll likely hit these parks naturally but if you don’t, be sure to visit Roger Williams Park and Memorial Park. Both easy to walk to from the RISD Art Museum. Also visit Burnside Park next Kennedy Plaza and the City Building. It has an Instagram worthy fountain.
Nine ~ My favorite eats: I’ve ordered these by price point. At the higher end of the scale is Gracie’s and Birch. Ironically, both are right next to each other. Gracie’s is a Michelin star experience. Get the multi-course chef’s tasting with wine pairings…all I can say is WOW. Birch is the same caliber of eats with a unique intimate setting of only 18 people around a bar. So far, my favorite pizza in town is Coal Fire Pizza. It’s the best Neapolitan pizza I’ve had this side of the Atlantic. And a new entrant to my list, Yoleni’s. It’s this cool Greek shop/restaurant. Think “Eataly” only for Greek food. During my last visit I learned that the family that owns it has a location in Athens and has for years. They are branching out in my fair city. Yoleni’s has become my go-to hang out for a bite, coffee and wi-fi!
Ten ~ Day trip to Newport: Hop on the PVD to Newport Ferry. I’ll cover Newport in my next post so stay tuned for that, but the Ferry ride itself is really nice and will give you a view of the area that you might not see otherwise. Lighthouses!
There is so much more to do and see like visit Brown University, take in PVD Fest (if you dare), enjoy a free movie in Grant’s Block on Thursday nights in the summer, visit India Point park on the water, I could go on but I won’t. But what I will say is, I’m so glad that “divine providence” saw fit to order my steps in such a way that I get to live in “physical Providence”!