UPDATED SEPTEMBER 2018 ~ The breathtaking beauty of the Amalfi Coast is defined by its rocky cliffs meeting the blue-green Mediterranean Sea. It’s a collision of contrast with a volcanic legacy that makes the colors seem more vibrant and crisp. It’s like you are living in high-definition. But that collision doth not create soft sandy beaches. The beaches are typically made up of little pebbles that make it absolutely impossible to make that sexy Bo Derek exit from the water like she did in the movie 10. You know, gracefully emerging from the water looking like a goddess. No chance here! The first time you go into, and exit the water, there is a very high likelihood that you will look like you are suffering from a bit of constipation! Don’t worry, it gets better and you’ll soon realize that no one cares. There is no body shaming here and everyone looks equally as clumsy. And the water, it feels like cool soft silk on your skin. I’ve never felt water like it anywhere else in the world. I typically spend every other day on a beach when I’m here so let me introduce you to a few of my favorites.
Spiaggia Grande. The big beach in the heart of Positano. You can rent a chair with an umbrella for 20 Euros or you can bring a towel and grab a spot in the free public area. The views of Positano from the beach and water make dealing with the crowds a worthwhile endeavor. Especially for the first timers!
Fornillo Beach. This is a bit of a hidden gem in Positano as it’s a little off the beaten path. You can walk to Fornillo from the main beach. In fact, you have to walk past Torre Trasita to get there or you can take a boat from one of three, wait four, restaurants on the beach. I can often be found at Da Ferdinando’s on Fornillo because the people that work there are so friendly and funny to talk to and the price is right at 10 Euros for a chair and umbrella.
Arienzo Beach. The 300 steps beach. Thats the number of steps up to the main road, but I much prefer going by boat. This beach has both a paid chair zone and a free zone and it’s considerably more peaceful than any of the other beaches I frequent. I’m also quite fond of the restaurant on this beach.
But, my new favorite beach is One Fire beach in Priano! My local friend Alessandro said, “you just have to go there” and he was right. It’s not a beach front with pebbles and such. It’s tucked into a cove and positioned on what looks to be a huge rock. You have to take a ladder to get into the water vs making that less than graceful walk on the pebbles. Besides the fact that a lady can walk like a lady here, what makes this place so special? There is music playing, an attentive wait staff that is singing and dancing and the food is quite good. But the culmination of the day is “Melon Time” at 4:30 pm. It’s quite the “ceremony” where large watermelons are cut into pieces with a saber and served to the guests and the dancing continues on until the last boat leaves. It’s a big beach party…or rather, party on a rock around a melon…Italians are so creative in coming up with reasons to celebrate!
I’ve had several readers ask me about Da Adolfo. Have I been? What did I think? Yes, I’ve been, more than once and let me just say, don’t believe the hype that is based on a legacy from over 15 to 20 years ago. The beach chairs are rickety, the food is average and the service reminded me of Dick’s Last Resort in NYC. For those that have not heard of Dick’s, it’s a place where the staff is paid to be rude to you…I had several moments where I wondered if Da Adolfo was the Amalfi Coast franchise of Dick’s.
Item of note: You can get away with not booking your chairs at Spiaggia Grande if you get down to the beach early enough, but in every other case, you’d be well advised to call ahead or it’s likely you won’t get a chair or get seated to eat.