The first time I did this hike I didn’t really know what I was getting myself into. I had heard about this great trail along the mountain tops of the Amalfi Coast from a vlogger and thought “hey, I can do that”! That vlogger did not do this trail, the view, the distance, or some of the difficulty, it’s due respect. In fact, I think the vlogger said something like, “you can do this in flip flops”. I’m here to tell you, “the chick lied”!
What does do this hike justice is its name, Sentiero Degli Dei, The Path of the Gods…and it truly is! I’ll provide some links and maps later. I like to start by taking a cab up to Bomerano and hike from east to west ending up in Positano. If you are prone to motion sickness this drive might do you in. Once you get there, ask your driver to drop you near the entrance of the path. He/she will be able to give you instructions how to find the trail head just off the city square past a little coffee shop and farm. It’s about a 15-kilometer hike if you do it end to end and that brings you Nocelle just above Positano. Once in Nocelle you can decide whether you want the bragging rights of coming down the 1,500 steps into the village.
I wouldn’t define this hike as “hard” perse, but there are moments of traversing rocks, ledges, uncertainty about where to go next and a bit of heat! I’ve never done this when it’s been really busy but I’ve heard it can get pretty jammed with walkers during high season.
I love taking my guests on this adventure because I get to relive it again for the first time through their eyes. The first time I went, I felt like Snow White. Butterflies flitting around me, salamanders walking along the path with me, birds singing with Italian accents, unique fragrant flora, and a view of sea that is considerably elevated yet seems touchable all at the same time. And if you are hiking from east to west, there is this moment, the first time, where this hike will take your breath away. I don’t want to be a spoiler so I won’t say when…but it does.
Finding the steps in Nocelle can be a little tricky but the locals are kind and will know what you are looking for. If you do this end to end with the steps, you can expect to wake up the next morning with tight calves, aching hips and a bit of sunburn, but it’s oh so worth it. I personally feel like a “hiking superhero”…”15 kms and 1,500 steps…bring me some wine!”
Tip: Always pack extra water, battery phone charger, sunscreen and a little snack just in case you need it. There will be breaks in the hike with stands but they are never as close as you would like when you need them.
Info link: Trip advisor embedded above and the Positano.com website here.
Next up...Let’s go up the coast to Amalfi